How to See Luxor in 3 Days

If you come to Egypt to get a taste of history rather than just a place to relax by the sea in the sun, well, you don't want to miss going to Luxor. 

The good news is that it doesn't take much time to see the main sites of Luxor. You can very easily see them in 3 days.

Getting to Luxor is easy. Flights to Luxor run about $100 and trust me, you will appreciate spending the extra cash to fly rather than spending the night on an overnight train to Luxor.

The best places to stay in Luxor are on the East Bank. There are hotels on the West Bank as well but you will have to take a ferry across the Nile to get to most of the restaurants.

Here is a sample schedule for seeing Luxor in 3 days:
DAY 1
Afternoon - arrive in Luxor, check into hotel
Evening - visit the Luxor Museum (Open 9am-1pm, 4-9pm WINTER)
*Arrange for next morning's hot air balloon ride

DAY 2
Early, early morning (times vary) - Hot air balloon ride over Luxor
Morning - return to hotel, eat breakfast, rest
Afternoon - visit the Luxor Temple (East Bank)
*Buy tickets for Karnak Sound & Light Show in the afternoon
Evening - attend the Karnak Temple Sound & Light show

DAY 3
Morning - get up, eat breakfast
Late morning - take the National Ferry across to the West Bank
*Hire a taxi for the day
West Bank schedule: Temple of Hatshepsut (1 hr), Valley of the Kings (1 1/2 hrs), Valley of the Queens (1/2 hr), Ramesseum (1/2 hr), Medinat Habu (1/2 hr)
Evening - return to hotel, rest, go out for dinner, take a carriage ride along the Nile

DAY 4
Morning - catch flight back to Cairo

If you have small children I recommend taking an extra day in Luxor. 

It is easy to do East Bank Luxor one day and West Bank Luxor another and finish it all at one time. However, it is quite exhausting to do so.

We used a modified schedule from the above when we went to Luxor recently. Keep in mind that I have a one-year-old that needed to go back to the hotel every day for a nap (and I think the rest of us much appreciated this down time as well).
DAY 1
Early afternoon - arrive in Luxor, check into hotel, eat lunch
Afternoon - put son down for a nap
Evening - visit the Luxor Museum

DAY 2
Morning - get up & eat breakfast, take National Ferry over to West Bank Luxor
Late morning - visit the Valley of the Kings
Afternoon - return to hotel, rest & relax, eat lunch
*Buy tickets for Karnak Sound & Light show
Evening - attend Karnak Sound & Light show
*Arrange for hot air balloon ride

DAY 3
Early, early morning - Hot air balloon ride over Luxor
Morning - return to hotel, eat breakfast, rest
Late morning - take National Ferry over to West Bank Luxor
Afternoon - visit the Temple of Hatshepsut, the Ramesseum, and Medinat Habu
Late afternoon - return to hotel, rest & relax
Evening - go out for dinner, carriage ride along the Nile

DAY 4
Morning - get up & eat breakfast
Late morning - visit the Luxor Temple
Afternoon - late check out from hotel, catch flight back to Cairo

What advice do I have for someone visiting Luxor?

• Buy books about Luxor before arriving in Luxor. I recommend the Illustrated Guide to Luxor and the Lonely Planet Egypt guide. Carry them with you to help guide you through the sights.
• Stay close to the center of town. If you plan to spend a week in Luxor, by all means, stay out at a nice resort and enjoy the heated pool in the sunny Luxor afternoons. Otherwise you'll hate have to hop in a taxi every time you need to get anywhere. 
• Don't buy souvenirs in Luxor. If you're going back to Cairo, wait to buy any souvenirs from the Khan El-Khalili. The stuff you'll find on the streets of Luxor is much cheaper at the Khan.
• Don't forget that a taxi on the West Bank of Luxor can take you home to the East Bank (there's a bridge down the Nile). So if you're really exhausted after a long afternoon in the hot sun, ask the driver how much he'll charge to take you all the way back to your hotel. If it's reasonable, enjoy the air-conditioned ride back.
• Check the Sound & Light website for times & days for the Karnak Temple shows. Shows are offered in different languages at different times. You'll want to plan your schedule around that.
• Buy your tickets to the Sound & Light show early. You don't want to get stuck without a ticket when all those tour groups have snagged all the tickets for that day.
• Don't forget that monuments and museums offer discounted tickets for students and also for spouses of Egyptian citizens. You MUST show your student ID to receive the student discount (so make sure you have it on hand). If you're married to an Egyptian, you MUST show your passport with the resident's visa stating that you're married to an Egyptian in order to receive the Egyptian ticket price. Trust me, it is WORTH the trouble (try 10 LE vs. 80 LE) 
• Choose wisely which tombs you'll enter in the Valley of the Kings. Remember that you can only enter 3 tombs on one ticket. Tutankhamen and Rameses VI are separate tickets (but well worth the money). Watch out because a lot of tombs are closed at certain times when least expected. Recommended tombs to visit are: Thutmes III (Tutmosis), Amenhetep II (Amenotep), Merneptah, Tausert & Seknakht. Try to start at the top of the Valley and work down (read: most difficult ones first).
• Carry a bottle of water with you. Places like the Temple of Hatshepsut and the Valley of the Kings are hot and don't provide much relief from the sun & heat (those tombs aren't any cooler) so you will need to have a water bottle handy. 
• Take the time to visit the Luxor Museum. I know it seems crazy to waste time in a museum when there are sights to see, but I've found that visiting the museum before seeing the sites kind of helps put a face to the pharaohs (after a while they all kind of run together).

What about you? Do you have any advice for visiting Luxor?

Egypt Essentials: The Bowab

A bowab is neither a thing or a place but rather a person. However, if you live in Egypt long enough, he might just become the most important person you'll meet.

The Arabic word "bowab" loosely translates into the English word "doorman," but he does so much more than just hold the door open to your building.

Years ago when I lived in Egypt the first time around, I lived in several apartment buildings. But I cannot tell you today whether any of them had a bowab present.

What a shame!

The first thing to know about dealing with a bowab is that you must be able to speak Arabic. Bowabs may be Muslim or Christian, but they are always from a lower class (and many times from upper Egypt) so they will not be able to speak any English.

There is one person in the building who usually serves as the building *manager.* This person usually owns a flat in the building and is responsible for all of the building maintenance and upkeep. They are also in charge of the bowab.

In our case (like many others) the bowab lives in a small room usually in the lower level of the building. We have a garage so his room is in the garage. Some bowabs have their families with them and some do not. 

The bowab is responsible for certain things as part of his regular job:
*Guard the building (although this does not meet to stand guard all night)

*Cleaning the inner shared parts of the building, including the stairwells, elevator(s), and entry or foyer to the building

*Cleaning of the front outside of the building, including the steps leading up to the building, the front sidewalk, and usually the part of the road or curb directly in front of the building

*Watering and caring for any plants inside or planted in front of the building

*Maintenance issues (elevator, lights in the stairwell, water pump, gas line, etc) that may need to be addressed by the building manager

However, the bowab is also able to perform services directly for the inhabitants of the building. This is where you'll find that he becomes invaluable. I never realized how many things a bowab could take care of until we moved into our building. Of course, some of these things require a certain amount of trust on your part.

Here are some things our bowab does for us:

Cleans our car daily. As far as I understand it, this is not part of our bowab's regular job but rather an understanding that he and my husband have decided on through the years.

Collects the mail. I have yet to see a mailman in our current building. Often when I lived in Egypt before I would receive a package while I was out of the house and all I'd get was a yellow slip that told me I'd have to go pay money down at the post office to collect it. However, with our bowab he pays the fee (usually) and holds the package for us until we come home.

Assists in carrying things. This might be when I'm getting out of a taxi with my young son on one arm and bags in that hand, struggling to wrench the stroller out of the car with the other... so you can see how this comes in handy. Other times he's there to help is when we come home from the grocery store or if we're off to the airport with all our luggage. In one way or another, his poor back has been saving ours for several years now.

Sends and receives the ironing. I'm not sure exactly when this started, because it used to be that the ironing guy would come up to the flat and deal with us directly. However, through the years - perhaps because we were often not in the house when the ironing guy would get around to coming by - we've taken to leaving the bag of clothes we're sending out for ironing with our bowab. Then when the ironing guy comes, he collects it from the bowab and when it's finished he brings it back to our bowab who then delivers it to our door.

Runs errands. This includes a wide variety of things. Our bowab buys fruits and vegetables for us. He goes to bring us foul (Egyptian beans eaten for breakfast) and freshly baked Egyptian balady bread. He runs to get milk or yogurt or whatever else I may have forgotten from the store or run out of suddenly. We might have surprise guests at the door and have nothing cold in the refrigerator to offer them to drink; when this happens I just call the bowab and he goes quickly to get some drinks for us.

There are a million other things that our bowab does for us, many of which are perhaps not part of his job but that he does anyways.

Honestly it can take years to build up a rapport with your bowab. And of course with many or most of these little extras it's customary to give a little tip out of thanks and respect for his hard work. Remember that those things aren't part of his everyday job.

Note: Although we personally have been blessed these past 5 years with an excellent bowab, it is important to know that you should be wary when dealing with your bowab. They should not be allowed in your house when you're not at home nor (particularly if you're a single lady or married lady alone without your husband or son) when you're at home. Unfortunately not every bowab is honest or trustworthy so be careful when you're new (you might get opinions from your neighbors in the building if you're concerned).

You may give your bowab a small gift at feast time (Muslim feasts if he's Muslim and Christmas & Easter if he's Christian). This is usually money. Sometimes we also give sweets like cookies or chocolates (not bought special but because we already had them in the house).

If you live in Egypt, I hope that you are able to fully appreciate your bowab. It is a very difficult job they have. However, at the same time if you can learn to both communicate and understand how to deal with your bowab, this will make your life in Egypt much easier in many ways.

What about you? Can you share any advice or experience you have on dealing with a bowab in Egypt?

Image courtesy walid.hassanein

Where to Take Guests to Eat in Cairo

It is the greatest joy to have people visit you when you live abroad. Of course, it can also be stressful and exhausting as well if you don't plan at least a little.

And let's face it - food requires planning.

There are many places that we like to take our guests when they come to visit. We usually don't have a lot of time so I try to be smart about where we go to eat.

I usually decide where to take our guests to eat based on the following 3 issues:

Atmosphere. Is it a warm and inviting place? Is it dim and crowded? Is it family friendly? Is it large and spacious? It depends on your group where you'd like to go. If you have young kids, you want the family friendly place. For large groups, you want the large and spacious place. For those wanting a more *authentic* dining experience in Cairo, they might want the dim and crowded place.

Location. A schedule will always revolve somehow around food. There are lots of great places to eat in Cairo, but not all of them are the best choice when you're all the way across town. Other things to consider are that you might want to give your guests a varied experience. For example, you might take them to Al-Azhar Park to dine at the Citadel View Restaurant on a Friday or Saturday just before sunset where they can overlook Islamic Cairo and enjoy the view while eating their fill at the oriental buffet.

Or you might take them to City Stars to eat at Abou El Sid restaurant to experience another side of Cairo while also having the opportunity to taste some authentic oriental food. I love to sit at the circular tables and to order a selection of dishes and just to whirl the middle around to share.

Or still another experience with eating at Andrea (I recommend either the Mokkatam or Mattareya locations) where you're out in the open air and you can smell the chicken roasting. The lady is usually sitting there baking fresh bread. You can feast on dips (salads) and starters to your little heart's content (and really should because it takes 30 minutes to get that chicken freshly roasted).

Quality of food. There is nothing more embarrassing than to take a guest to a place that doesn't have good food. I always feel like I have wasted my time and energy to come to a place where I don't get food that tastes good.

My advice is never to take your guests to a place that you have never tried before. No matter how high of a recommendation a place gets from someone you know, you'll feel more comfortable with your guests if you've been there before. That way you can recommend certain dishes to your guests and in general get a feel for the place. Plus if you tip well, they might remember you the next time you come and you may even get better service than you did the last time.

All-in-all eating in Cairo can (and should) be a delightful experience for your guests. They may never be able to experience the best Egyptian food which is, of course, homemade Egyptian food. However, they may be able to get a feel for the traditional culture and food here by tasting it in some of the fabulous restaurants available in Cairo.

I would recommend the following places to take guests in Cairo:
*Citadel View Restaurant (Studio Misr), Al-Azhar Park
*Andrea, Mokkatam or Marioteyya locations
*Felfela, Downtown
*Abou El Sid, Zamalek or City Stars locations (the only ones I can vouch for)

What about you? What is your favorite place to take guests to eat in Cairo?

Egypt Essentials: The Pharmacy

All of these items are available in Egypt

A pharmacy would be important in any country for obvious reasons. But in Egypt, the average pharmacy is bound to surprise with all kinds of secret items hidden away.

I know you think I'm exaggerating. But it's really true.

Sure you can buy medicine under the counter, over the counter, you name it counter and well, no prescription is required.

And just like I've mentioned already about fighting a cold in Egypt, you can simply walk up to the pharmacist, name your ailment and get the appropriate medicine (or at least something that might work).

But did you know that pharmacies here also carry the following items?
*Shampoo
*Conditioner
*Shower gel
*Hair gel
*Hair wax
*Hair spray
*Face wash
*Hand & body lotion
*Anti-aging creams
*Sunscreen
*Boxed hair coloring sets
*Toothpaste
*Toothbrushes
*Floss
*Mouth wash
*Band-aids (adhesive bandages)
*Elastic bandages
*Compression stockings
*Cotton balls
*Sterile gauze pads
*Tweezers
*Nail clippers
*Nail files
*Nail polish remover
*Nail polish
*Make-up (lipstick, eye shadow, foundation, eye liner, etc)
*Pill cutters
*Scales
*Razors
*Shaving cream
*Hand soap
*Victoria's Secret lotions
*Perfumes of all kinds
*Colognes of all kinds
*Baby food
*Baby cereal
*Formula
*Bottles
*Diapers
*Swimming diapers
*Diaper wipes
*Diaper rash creams
*Baby shampoo & body wash
*Dr. Sholl's shoes
*Vitamins
*Hair appliances (straightener, curler, blow dryer)
*Eye glasses
*Feminine products (sanitary napkins, tampons, hair removal creams)
*Strollers
*Highchairs

This is really just the beginning of the list of things you can find at pharmacies in Egypt. I'm telling you, these places are like mini goldmines just waiting to be explored.

Yes, I have known to be a bit of a pharmacy junkie in Egypt (I guess it stems from my addiction to Walmart and Target back home in the States).

Here are a few well-known pharmacies that tend to stock a lot of the above items:
El-Ezaby Pharmacy. Locations across Cairo.
Seif Pharmacy. Locations across Cairo. Watch their prices, though, because I've seen some things priced higher than other local pharmacies.
Abdel Maksoud Pharmacy. Heliopolis. My experience is that this is hands down the best pharmacy in Heliopolis. I used to frequent this place at least once a week.

Keep in mind that pharmacies in Egypt deliver. You do, however, have to know what exactly you need. If you don't speak enough Arabic to communicate what you need, just speak in English slowly and they'll most likely hand the phone over to the closest English-speaker on hand.

Delivery is great because if you're sick you just have to call the pharmacy instead of dragging yourself out the door to get what you need. Trust me, this will save you one of these days (if it hasn't already).

I hope that you will appreciate the pharmacy in Egypt as much as I do. I get really excited when I see another pharmacy near us opening up. This means I have more places to find what I need!

Note: Keep in mind that many of these items can also be found in larger supermarkets - sometimes even at cheaper prices - so keep your eyes open when you're out shopping for groceries as well.

What about you? Do you have any recommendations for a great pharmacy near you (if you live in Cairo)?

Egypt School of Driving: Redefining the Right-of-Way

Just because I got my driver's license in Kentucky doesn't mean that I've got this driving thing all figured out. Egyptians take driving to an entirely new level, and I think it's high time I share the notes I've been taking about how a *real* Egyptian should drive.

Be forewarned, however, that driving in Egypt is not for the faint of heart.

And if you're like me and you've only ever ridden as a passenger in Egypt, well, prepare for the ride of your life.

To show a real comparison, however, between the way we drive in the States (namely, Kentucky), I have decided to do a comparison between the "rules of the road" according to the official Kentucky driver's manual and the "rules of the road" as they play out on the streets of Cairo.

Let's take a look first at the Right-of-Way.

Point 1: Pedestrians
KENTUCKY
"By law, drivers must yield to pedestrians under the following conditions, (1) when pedestrians are in a crosswalk or at an intersection and there is no traffic light and (2) when turning a corner and pedestrians are crossing with the light."
EGYPT
Pedestrians are a driving obstacle. Every good driver in Egypt knows that the object is to get as close as possible to a person walking in the street without actually knocking them over. And if you get too close, don't worry - they'll just lay there for a second groaning in pain (surely it's not THAT bad) and get right up and go again.

*This includes mothers walking with babies in strollers and older persons trying to cross the street.*

If you're concerned with their safety, honk the horn real loud right before you pass them. That way they can jump out of the way in time before you run them over. At night, be sure to substitute flashing your lights for the honking of the horns. This is particularly true for foreigners walking in the dark because they're foreigners, they understand exactly what you mean.

Point 2: Turns
KENTUCKY
"Drivers turning left must yield according to oncoming vehicles that are going straight or turning right."
EGYPT
"If there isn't a police officer with a pad & pen in his hands ready to take down your license number, feel free to turn left at your leisure. Don't worry about the cars coming straight towards you. They'll appreciate the fun in swerving to avoid hitting you at the last moment.

Point 3: Traffic Circles / Roundabouts
KENTUCKY
"Drivers entering a traffic circle or roundabout must yield right-of-way to drivers already in the circle."
EGYPT
A roundabout (called a "midan" in Egypt) is no fun when there aren't any cars in it. So please be sure - regardless of how many cars are already packed into the midan - to force your car into the stream of cars. It's best if you take the extreme left and go straight across to the extreme right - that way you stop more cars in the process.

Point 4: Minor Roads vs. Main Roads
KENTUCKY
"Drivers on a minor road must yield to drivers on a main road."
EGYPT
Who cares what the difference is between a minor road and a main road is? If you're driving straight, people should stop for you. If you're turning left, people should stop for you. If you're turning right, people should stop for you. And especially if you're going the wrong way down a one-way street, the rest of traffic should come to a screeching halt and get out of your way because you have extenuating circumstances which mean you have to drive the *wrong* way.

Point 5: Intersections
KENTUCKY
"At a 4-way, 3-way, or 2-way stop, the driver reaching the intersection and stopping first should go first."
EGYPT
Regardless of how many streets are intersecting, the only reason to stop is if another car's nose or tail is in your way and you can't find a way to inch around it.

I know you're itchin' to do a little driving in Egypt yourself now, right?

But seriously, I have been studying this whole right-of-way concept in Egypt for years now, and I'd say that it's all basically a matter of being completely fearless. If you're shy and timid and don't get the nose of your car out there to enter the stream of traffic, well, you'll be sitting there for a while. You have to just get out there and do it - leaving your fear in the cloud of dust behind you.

My husband and I have been discussing lately whether or not I'm ready to begin driving in Egypt yet. And I'm telling you (just like I tell him) that I'm ready.

Just ask my grandma who taught me how to drive. When it came time to merge onto the interstate highway that first time - a time when most people gradually accelerate to move into the oncoming stream of traffic - well, I floored it.

No fear here!

So I think I'm ready. What do YOU think?

Celebrating Christmas Overseas

Christmas is often a hard time to be an expat living overseas. For me, it's not just about being four-thousand miles away from family but also the struggle to keep the holiday traditions alive while living abroad.

Sure I love to trim the tree, bake cookies, sing Christmas carols, watch Christmas movies, and go to the candlelight service on Christmas Eve.

But it's still not always easy to make it feel like Christmas around here, but I do my best.

Even if I usually trim the tree alone. I might bake cookies and find that nobody likes them. I still sing carols loud and proud around the house even there's no one else to sing along. We still watch my favorite Christmas movies - like White Christmas, The Grinch Who Stole Christmas, and Home Alone - even if they're not the type of movies my husband grew up with.

Don't get me wrong, my husband's a good sport about the whole thing, even if these aren't the same Christmas traditions he's used to. And after being married for several years now he's used to me wanting to keep all those American holiday traditions alive in Egypt.

Even if sometimes it seems like I'm forcing it to feel like Christmas. And that can be downright exhausting.

Anyone else ever feel that way?

This is the life of an expat living abroad. We celebrate our holidays and traditions the best way we can. The longer the span of time you spend abroad, a little more distant you feel when the holidays come around.

One interesting fact is that most Egyptian Christians celebrate Christmas on January 7 instead of December 25. Apparently Eastern Orthodox national churches in Egypt, Greece and Russia (to name a few) use the Julian calendar rather than the Gregorian calendar (used by Catholics and most Protestants as well) which means that holidays such as Christmas and sometimes Easter fall on a different day.

My son is going to love this when he gets older. What more could a little guy ask for than to get 2 Christmases every year?

Anyhow here we are again, it's Christmas Eve. The tree is sparkling, the cookies baked, presents wrapped, and all that's left is to attend the candlelight service at church tonight.

Merry Christmas everyone! May it be blessed wherever you are in the world!

The Wonder Years, Part 5: Making Egyptian Friends

Friends make the world go round. Sure it's your family that has to love you through thick and thin, but it's your friends that CHOOSE to love you.

Plus they make life a whole lot more fun.

Egyptians are friendly. There is no doubt about that. I would say that most newcomers could agree with that, considering how many "Welcome to Egypt" greetings you might get your first several years here.

I always say that the sign that you've been here long enough to fit in is when you don't have people coming up to you and saying that to you here in the street.

Making local friends is an important step to settling down in Egypt.

I already told you about how hard it was for me to begin to learn to speak the language here and how I suffered from the side-effects of culture shock early on during my first years in Egypt. So I guess it's no surprise to you that I didn't make any Egyptian friends until after I'd been here for several months.

I think that if I'd made Egyptian friends earlier that I would have had an easier time those first few months.

But once I did find some locals to become friends with, this was all I needed to open the door to me feeling at home in Egypt. Of course it helped that I had learned a little Arabic and understood a little more of the Egyptian culture by this time.

I wouldn't say it's hard to make friends in Egypt. It's just that it's not something you can really measure at first. So when you think you've made a friend, maybe in a week's time they won't call you back. Or maybe someone you hadn't counted on becoming friends with sticks to you like glue.

In the beginning I found it easier to befriend the people I spent the most time with. Since most of my time was spent studying Arabic, I became friends with my Arabic language helper (a girl my age who helped me practice Arabic and learn about Egyptian culture 3 times a week). Also I enjoyed being with my Arabic grammar tutor who I met with twice a week - an older lady but still friendly.

I did also get the chance to spend two weeks with a young married Egyptian couple as a sort of cultural immersion experience. So after struggling through speaking all Arabic to the wife for two weeks and getting to know all her family and friends (especially from the church), I because such good friends with her I decided to marry her older brother.

Okay, so it wasn't JUST because I liked her so much. (He was pretty great himself...)

So my Egyptian friends were mostly the people around me, people I saw on a fairly regular basis. I didn't usually consider people I met while I was out and about as friends.

In fact, it's pretty difficult to become friends with just someone off the street. I'm not saying it can't happen in Egypt, just that it can be hard to really make that kind of a connection out on the streets of Cairo. Seriously, do you meet your friends back home while you're out at the mall? Most people become friends with people they know - not complete strangers. I'm not saying it can't be done, just that it's difficult.

But I can honestly say that I had some great friends in Egypt after I'd been here for a while. They have been such a help in making Egypt feel more like home to me.

And now that I live in Egypt full-time, well, since so many expats come and go every few years, it is nice to know that there are some Egyptians that will stand with me through the years, regardless of circumstance.

And despite the fact that I'm still American and stick my foot in my mouth occasionally...

There are some definite advantages to having Egyptians as friends:

They open the door to the Egyptian culture. Sure after living for so long in Egypt, I could sit here and try to give you a rundown of all the things you need to know about living in Egypt... or you could watch them being lived out by an Egyptian. Which is more interesting? Which is more accurate? (Trust me, after almost 8 years in Egypt, I still make mistakes)

They can teach you Arabic. The only skill they need is to be a native speaker. An Egyptian can tell you if you're pronouncing something incorrectly... and they can tell you how to say it right. You can (and will) learn all kinds of new vocabulary from them.

Egypt is their world. They know all the best stores to buy things. They know all the best places to eat and drink. You'll experience things you'd never dream of doing simply because you're with an Egyptian. It doesn't get any better than that.

Let me just say that I was more than thankful for the friends I had back then... they certainly made Egypt a home away from home for me.

Just keep in mind these important things when trying to make friends in Egypt:

Be sincere. People anywhere in the world respond to sincerity. Cross-cultural communication doesn't really allow for that "fake it till you make it" stuff. If you don't mean it, don't say it. (This is not to be confused with some of the cultural traditions you might pick up in Egypt.)

It takes time. Be patient. Friendships don't happen overnight. I've found that a real friendship develops with shared experiences which, of course, requires time. Try not to get discouraged (like I did in the beginning) if you can't write home about all the new friends you're making in the first weeks (or months) you live in Egypt.

Another thing about time is simply that Egyptians spend more time with their friends than we're used to back home in the States. So if I hung out with my best friend once every couple of weeks, here they might see their friend minimum of once a week and they talk to them even more often. My husband talks to most of his closest friends on a daily basis, and if he doesn't call them - they call him.

Be a friend first. An Egyptian you meet may not understand that you want to be friends with him or her (stick to same genders please, ladies to ladies and guys to guys, just to be on the safe side). You might have to make a little more effort from your side from the beginning.

Learn the Egyptian culture. The first mistake a lot of expats make when they try to become friends with locals is they put their foot right in their mouth by saying the wrong thing. They say something (usually a direct translation from their native language to the Arabic) and it just doesn't mean the same thing here. Depending on how much exposure your newfound *friend* has had to Western culture, they might not be so forgiving if you say or do something wrong (or offensive). I'm not saying don't make mistakes, because - let's face it - nobody can just move to Egypt, learn the language and assimilate into the culture without making any mistakes. I'm saying just be aware. Try to learn all you can.

Don't force it. Just because an Egyptian is friendly doesn't mean that they necessarily want to be your friend. If they give you their number and then don't answer your calls, then they don't want to be your friend. Or if they do and yet they never call you back on their own, well they probably don't want to be your friend then either. Trust me, if they never EVER call you - they don't really want to be your friend.

Location matters. It's hard to be friends with someone who lives all the way across town. But if you find someone who lives close to you, you might find it easier to keep that connection with them in the long run.

Don't get discouraged. Lots of people who move to a new country don't know anyone when they first get there. You're in the same boat that every other expat has been in. If you can't find local friends, stick with your expat ones for now. But keep trying to get out there and meet people. You might be surprised at the friends you'll make in the end.

Also, don't get discouraged if your friend doesn't open up his or her entire life to you right away. Maybe if you're female the family might want to meet you to make sure you're a *good girl* for their daughter to spend time with. But often you might just meet with your friend one-on-one. Eventually they might introduce you to other friends, but again just be patient and try not to force the issue. You don't want to make them uncomfortable.

Try not to complain. Egyptian friends are not the people you should complain about Egypt to. I don't care if you hate the traffic, hate the crowds, hate the dust, the pollution, the heat... try to find something positive about Egypt when you talk with your Egyptian friends. And ESPECIALLY do NOT complain about the Egyptian people to Egyptians... be careful not to make any kind of negative generalizations about Egyptians in their presence. Trust me, they won't say it, but they'll be wondering if you think that of them in the back of their minds.

They're just people too. Maybe this is just an American thing, but I've had to catch myself from thinking about how much better things are in the United States than they are here. Sure, there's room for improvement in Egypt in many ways but we can still come here as expats and learn from the people here. So if you have in your mind that you're somehow *better* than Egyptians (even in the very very back of your mind), this might be an unconscious barrier to making any real friends here.

All in all, the point is that if you're living in Egypt as an expat you're missing out on the most important part of the Egyptian experience if you don't make local friends here.

Because the best part about Egypt is the Egyptians.

Don't forget to check out the rest of this series:
The Wonder Years, Part 1: Arriving in Cairo
The Wonder Years, Part 2: Learning to Speak Arabic
The Wonder Years, Part 3: Seeing the Sights of Cairo
The Wonder Years, Part 4: Dealing with Culture Shock

The Wonder Years is a series about Erin's first 2 years in Cairo before she met and married her Egyptian husband. Stay tuned for more of her adventures in Egypt the first time around.

Egypt Essentials: The Stationery Shop

There are some things here in Egypt that I could live without... and others that I rely on time and time again. The typical stationery shop in Egypt is the latter. I honestly don't know what I'd do without them.

You KNOW how I love Walmart, but since there's not one here I have to make do with what's available.

And that's where the stationery shop comes in...

I mean it's not like I go running to one just about every day or even every week. But there are times - like today - that I need something random like Christmas wrapping paper and I know just where to get it.

You might be surprised at what these places carry. Here's a small list:
*Notebooks of all sizes
*Notepads of all kinds and sizes
*Pens (ballpoint and gel)
*Pencils (the graphite and mechanical kinds)
*Colored pencils
*Markers of all types
*Envelopes of all sizes (white, brown, A4, A5, etc.)
*Staples & staplers
*Rubber bands, paperclips, scissors, etc.
*Greeting cards
*Wrapping paper
*Gift bags
*Day planners
*Picture frames
*Candles
*Books (used & new)
*Arabic-English dictionaries
*Calendars
*Magazines

Trust me, I used to be an office manager for an Egyptian company here, so I KNOW that these places carry what you need. If you can't find it in one place, ask them and they might be able to order it for you or maybe direct you to another place that might carry it.

Unless you're me - who still brings packs of my favorite blue Pilot G2 0.7mm fine point gel rolling ball pens from the States and hoards them for years, only opening a new pack of 3 when ABSOLUTELY necessary!

But that's just me.

I do have a favorite stationery shop in Egypt. My particular favorite has been Everyman's in Korba, Heliopolis for years. And let me just say that this place rocks!

Everyman's has the best selection of wrapping paper, gift bags, and greeting cards year-round here on the main floor along with other great items like picture frames. Upstairs is a haven of basic office supply items including some of my favorites like good-quality notebooks (which can be hard to find here), blue gel 0.7mm pens, and those A5 brown envelopes with bubble paper inside (great for sending things back to KY), along with new & used books (a pretty good selection of books about Egypt if I'm in a pinch and have no time to run to Diwan).

Today I went looking for Christmas wrapping paper and I was pleased that - as usual - they had a great selection of paper available. There were also these great Christmas tins that I can imagine would make great gifts (fill them with Patchi chocolates or homemade fudge). I even found gift tags, something I don't usually find in Egypt.

I didn't make it downstairs today, but I know that they usually have a great selection of knick-knacks like candles and figurines and such. This time of year, they are sure to have Christmas decorations like lights and garland among other things available.

In case you don't live in Heliopolis, I can recommend a few other places:
Samir & Aly (branches all across Cairo)
Bakier Stationery (Maadi, new branch now in Korba-Heliopolis)
Volume 1 (Maadi)
Attic Stationery

I have to say, though, that you'd be surprised at how much those little shops can carry - even that small one you have around the corner in Cairo. Plus they are a great place to make cheap copies (they'll even bind copies together into a book for a small fee).

Seriously, you can't really live in Egypt for very long without walking into one. They might seem a bit cheesy on the outside, but I promise there's much more than meets the eye inside.

What about you? Any recommendations for a great stationery shop near you (if you live in Cairo)?

100 Things to Do in Egypt

1. Visit the Giza Pyramids
2. Visit the Sphinx
3. Visit the Solar Barque (Boat) Museum
4. Ride a camel
5. Take a Cairo taxi
6. Eat lunch at the Pizza Hut overlooking the Pyramids
7. Have lunch at Felfela downtown
8. Visit the Egyptian Museum
9. Watch the Sound & Light Show at the Pyramids
10. Walk across the Qasr el-Nile Bridge from downtown Cairo to the Gezirah or Zamalek island
11. Buy books at the American University of Cairo bookstore in downtown Cairo
12. Visit the Cairo Tower
13. Have dinner at the Revolving Restaurant at the Grand Hyatt Cairo hotel
14. Sit inside the Mosque of Muhammad Ali and look up at the chandelier and dome lamps (Citadel)
15. Check out all the different pillars inside the Mamluk mosque (Citadel)
16. Enjoy the view overlooking Islamic Cairo from the Citadel
17. Take a walking tour of Islamic Cairo
18. Visit the Hanging Church (Coptic Cairo)
19. Visit the Church of St. George (Coptic Cairo)
20. Visit the Ben Ezra Synagogue (Coptic Cairo)
21. Visit the Amr Ibn Al-Aas mosque (1st mosque built in Egypt and in Africa)
22. Visit Al-Azhar Park
23. Watch the sunset at the Citadel View restaurant at Al-Azhar Park
24. Shop for souvenirs at the Khan El-Khalili tourist bazaar
25. Eat lunch at the Naguib Mahfouz cafe in Khan El-Khalili
26. Drink coffee at El Fishawy's coffeehouse in Khan El-Khalili
27. Ride the Cairo metro
28. Walk along the Corniche El-Nile
29. Eat koshary
30. Eat foul sandwiches
31. Eat ta'amiya (fried fava bean patties)
32. Visit the Al-Azhar mosque
33. Visit the Al-Hussein mosque
34. Walk over the bridge to visit the other side of the Khan El-Khalili area
35. Watch a whirling dervish show
36. Watch a belly dancing show
37. Take a Nile cruise in Cairo
38. Visit the Cave Church in Mokattam
39. Visit the Recycling Center in the Garbage Village
40. Ride on a felucca sailboat in Cairo
41. Attend an Egyptian wedding
42. Walk in downtown Cairo at night
43. Eat at Abou El Sid restaurant in Zamalek
44. Visit a glass blowing factory
45. Go shopping for used books in Abbassia
46. Walk around the Wikalat al-Balah area downtown
47. Visit the Giza Zoo
48. Drink fresh fruit juice from a street fruit juice stand (at your own risk)
49. Eat Roz bi-Leban (Rice with Milk) from El Malky
50. Have dinner at an Egyptian family's home (best food in Egypt)
51. Attend an Egyptian church service
52. Attend an international church service
53. Visit an Egyptian orphanage
54. Learn how to make ma3shi wara aneib (stuffed grape leaves)
55. Eat fresh fetir
56. Ride on a microbus
57. Visit an Egyptian sporting club
58. Break the fast with Muslims during Ramadan
59. Visit the Saqarra Pyramids
60. Visit the camel market
61. Visit the Pharaonic Village
62. Shop at City Stars Mall
63. Take the train to Alexandria
64. Visit the Alexandria Library
65. Visit Montazah Palace Gardens in Alexandria
66. Walk along the Corniche in Alexandria
67. Visit Pompey's Pillar in Alexandria
68. Eat at an open-air fish restaurant in Alexandria
69. Go snorkeling at the Blue Hole in Dahab
70. Climb Mt. Sinai
71. Visit the St. Catherine monastery
72. Go parasailing in Sharm El-Sheikh
73. See the mangrove trees at Ras Muhammad National Park
74. Walk along the boardwalk at night in Naama Bay (Sharm El-Sheikh)
75. Eat at the Hard Rock Cafe Sharm El-Sheikh
76. Spend the night in the desert
77. See the White Desert
78. See the Black Desert
79. Visit the Bahariya Oasis
80. Go four-wheeling on the sand dunes
81. Visit the Siwa Oasis
82. Visit the Luxor Temple
83. Watch the Sound & Light Show at the Karnak Temple (Luxor)
84. Watch the sunrise by hot air balloon over Luxor
85. Visit the Temple of Hatshepsut (Luxor)
86. Visit the Valley of the Kings, in particular King Tut's tomb (Luxor)
87. Visit the Valley of the Queens, in particular Queen Nefertari's tomb (Luxor)
88. Visit Medinet Habu (Luxor)
89. Visit the Ramesseum (Luxor)
90. See the Colossi of Memnon (Luxor)
91. Visit the Luxor Museum (Luxor)
92. Take a carriage ride in Luxor
93. Eat at the McDonald's across from the Luxor Temple
94. See the Aswan High Dam
95. Visit the Temple of Abu Simbol
96. Take a boat ride on Lake Victoria
97. Take a Nile Cruise from Luxor to Aswan
98. Visit Kum-Ombo Temple
99. Visit the Edfu Temple
100. Visit the Philae Temple

Fighting a Cold in Egypt

It's that time again in Egypt that we wait around for all year. The nights are cooler. The days are still warm, but the sun doesn't shine quite so bright. In short, it's the "most wonderful time of the year."

Okay, well so it's not Christmas (yet). Not that Christmas in Egypt is anything like the white Christmases I grew up with in Alaska.

By the way, don't you just love this snow scene? Doesn't it make you just want to go out and go sledding?

But the one thing I hate that the change in the weather does bring is the dreaded cold virus. Maybe it's because people don't dress quite as warmly as they should. Maybe it's because they don't cover their mouths like they should when they cough or sneeze in public. And maybe, just maybe it's because they forget to wash their hands afterwards when they do...

Because even though many people in Egypt might believe that sleeping with the air-conditioning on can cause a cold. It CAN'T!

You catch a cold, as in a virus, from another person. Maybe it's something they've touched. Maybe their germs have traveled through the air over to you (due to the lack of covering their nose and/or mouth). Maybe it's when they kissed you hello.

I hate having a cold.

The good news is that fighting a cold in Egypt isn't as hard as you might think. I know that finding medicines when you live abroad can be a bit of a headache, especially if you're from somewhere like the States where there's always a newer and better pill on the market to cure what ails ya.

I know that (especially if you're new here) you might assume that Egypt doesn't have any medicine that you'd want to take. I mean, who knows WHAT they have hidden away in all those pharmacies on practically every corner here in Cairo... or how LONG it's been there?

But the good news is that if you have a name, you can write it down and give it to the pharmacist, well, if they have it, he or she'll sell it to you. No prescription required. Just make sure you check the expiration dates.

Here is the low-down on what's available in Egypt for fighting a cold:

• Claritin: A non-drowsy antihistamine. I brought loads of this in liquid gel form back from the USA recently. Great for all ages, be sure to check the package for dosage.
• Tavegyl: A mild antihistamine, the drowsy kind. My OBGYN prescribed this for me while I was pregnant. You have to be careful about medicines if you're expecting.
• Physiomer: A saline nasal spray. The best prevention method out there, especially for children (even newborns). And it will work wonders to clear that blockage in your nose in ways that blowing alone can never do.
• Halls: Throat lozenges. Helpful if you have a sore throat. Egyptians eat these as candy (seriously!) so you'll find them just about anywhere.
• Vitamin C: The most common form is effervescent tablets that dissolve in water.
• Cough syrup: Ask for this at the pharmacy and they should be able to give you something.
• Tissues: Sorry no special tissues with lotion are available in Egypt, but small packs of tissues are available just about anywhere (even at the little kiosks down on the corner).  

The great news is that winter is the season for oranges in Egypt. You'll find oranges, tangerines, grapefruit and even mandarins. And, of course, lemons are available all year round. So I recommend that you keep your kitchen stocked with these fresh fruits as the cold season comes round.

And everyone knows that natural Vitamin C is better than taking the tablets, right?

But in case you're tired of all that orange juice, did you know that the following fruits and veggies are good sources of Vitamin C too?
Kiwi (imported year-round)
Papaya (not in season now)
Tomatoes (available year-round)
Cantaloupe (a summer fruit)
Strawberries (just bought our first bunch last week)
Brussel sprouts (available frozen)
Broccoli (coming into season)
Sweet green pepper (available year-round)

And the one thing I know I need more than ever when I come down with a cold is SLEEP. If it's one thing I know after 7+ years of living abroad it's that I need more sleep than I ever did back home. And when I'm sick, well, nothing works better for me than a few hours extra of sleep.

But that's just me.

And if all else fails, just ask the pharmacist. The good thing is that in most pharmacies the pharmacist will most likely speak English. So if you need medicine for a certain ailment (sore throat, cough, runny nose, etc.) just go in and tell them you need something for... fill in the blank... and they'll probably be able to give you something for it. It might not work as great or as quickly as what you had back home, but it'll work... eventually.

What about you? Do you have any great home remedies for treating a cold? 

The Wonder Years, Part 4: Dealing with Culture Shock

As much as I love Egypt, I must admit that it may not leave the best of first impressions. Traffic is insane with cars weaving in and out beeping their horns incessantly like they're in some PlayStation game gone wrong.

The air is thick with pollution and dust. In fact, everything seems to be a permanent dull beige in color.

It's hot. And the sun just doesn't ever seem to stop shining. By midday, you're praying for just a small tree somewhere to lend you some shade. Or at least for that building's shadow to move just a little bit to give you a break.

It can all be a little too much to bear.

All in all, if some pharaoh hadn't thought so much of himself to build himself a huge monument of stone that's lasted for centuries... Well, perhaps we wouldn't be so enamored with the thought of making the long trek here.

That's the Pyramids, by the way, in case you were wondering.

But in all seriousness, it's important to highlight the difficulties alongside the good things. I mean, we ARE trying to paint a real, authentic picture of Egypt here on Egypt Ramblings, now aren't we?

So what is culture shock anyways? I like Wikipedia's take on culture shock, in case you've never experienced it for yourself. The only thing I would add is that culture shock comes in cycles. It's not all cut-and-dried, the first few weeks in the Honeymoon phase, the next few months in the Negotiation phase, etc.

The fact of the matter is that while the phases might come in this order the first time around, well - if you're in Egypt long enough - you're bound to go through them again.

And again.

And again.

Unfortunately I didn't last very long in my initial Honeymoon phase the first time around. It might have even lasted days. It may have been the fact that I arrived on Friday and started language school across town bright and early on Monday morning.

Getting to language school was no easy task. First, it didn't help that I had to wake up earlier than I'd gotten up in years (as in Northern Kentucky University, freshman year, 2nd semester - when I foolishly signed up for a 5-day-a-week 8:00 AM Calc 2 class). Secondly, the 10-minute taxi ride to the Metro station took 20-30 minutes at that time in the morning (yeah, I know, since when do people actually STOP for the traffic lights in Cairo?) Then it was just a small matter of braving the morning rush to work by squeezing onto the ladies car on the Metro.

Forty-five minutes later we'd peel ourselves from the glass to step out onto the platform and breathe fresh air (that did not include the stink of some polyester-clad lady's sweaty armpits).

Only to find that we were 15 minutes late for the opening remarks by the language school principal... who promptly scolded us in front of the entire school for being late.

I think the girls had to hold me back from scratching his eyes out.

Yep, I definitely hit culture shock pretty fast.

My way of dealing with culture shock back in the old days was mostly withdrawal. I was perfectly happy hanging out at home. My roomie and I became experts at McDonald's delivery and late-night movie marathons. She also happened to be a Law & Order junkie so I got my fill of *dun-dun* pretty quick.

Sure, I'd get out and walk around the neighborhood. I'd buy fresh bread from the bakery around the corner. I'd go hang out with some of the girls from time to time. I enjoyed hearing their stories about all their exciting escapades through out the city and marvel at how brave they were.

But I was not about to go out and experience it for myself.

I was what you might call a "late bloomer" in Egypt.

It took me a while to get used to being here. I was too afraid of making mistakes to try very hard. Life for me in Cairo was more about just treading water than actually going out for a swim. I was just trying to make it from day to day.

It didn't help that I felt like a fish out of water here. Too many things had changed for me in too little time. I was paralyzed from the shock of it all.

Here are a few things that had changed for me:

My clothes. I'd been a t-shirt, jeans, and tennis shoes girl all my life. And here I was in Egypt wearing dresses and skirts. Whose idea was this anyways? It was downright uncomfortable. I didn't know how to cross my legs properly. I didn't have the right shoes. And somehow I lived in constant fear that some crazy Egyptian guy was gonna come up behind me and flip my skirt up.

The attention in the street. Let's just say that in America, I was invisible. I was never the kind of girl that turned heads. And I was okay with that. But suddenly everywhere I went in Cairo, men were looking at me. And when I mean looking, I mean LOOKING. It unnerved me. And they said things to me. I didn't understand the words but I didn't need a translator to know that I didn't want to know what they were saying.

Living in a big city. I had never lived in a city even remotely close to the size of Cairo. So dealing with the Cairo crowds and having to take public transportation everywhere was overwhelming. I couldn't believe how many ladies could fit into a single Metro car, especially when schools started... and then Ramadan came.

Being unable to communicate. I was a Speech Communication major for cryin' out loud. Words were my life! And suddenly 2-year-olds could communicate better than I could. I felt like an idiot.

Not having any friends. I struggled to connect with people. I had a great roommate and had class with some great girls at language school. But that was more like "friends by force" than true friendship. They were basically stuck with me. The good news is that I became great friends with them later, but it was rough starting out.

Sometimes I think about the Erin back then and I want to go back and shake her. I wish I could tell her to JUST. DO. SOMETHING! Stop being so afraid. Stop waiting for the world to stop and take notice of you. Stop comparing yourself to others. Stop trying so hard to keep from failing that you fail from doing NOTHING!

I still struggle with culture shock in Egypt at times. I do love this country, I really do. But there are times, days, weeks, even where I have just had it up to here. I don't want another guy looking at me that way. I'm tired of trying to think in Arabic. I get lonely. I miss home. And if I have to explain one more taxi driver this week why I don't want to put my son's stroller on top of their car...

Hey, I'm only human.

But I've gotten better at reading the signs of culture shock for me. It still creeps up on me occasionally, but I recognize the feeling a lot quicker than I used to. I know when it's probably better that I sit at home and watch reruns of Glee or NCIS than go out. That maybe today my son and I should just take a stroll down the street to our favorite local coffee shop rather than braving the traffic to go somewhere more exciting. That when he's taking a nap maybe I should too.

And if I have a cold... well, just forget about getting out of the house. Because I am not a very nice person in any language when I can't breathe right.

I think we all have days like that.

What is my advice to anyone experiencing culture shock? Answer these questions.

1. Have you lived in a big city before? Not everything we small-town folk have to deal with is culture shock... sometimes it's just big city shock. The crowds, the traffic, the buildings everywhere, the noise. Maybe your problem is that you just need some quieter, less-polluted air to breathe (so skip down to #8).
2. Do you have a support system where you are? Not everyone comes to Egypt with all the details worked out. Maybe you're having trouble because you don't know how to do basic everyday things... and you have no one to ask for advice. If so, find a community. This might be a gym, a church, a expat group, you name it, whatever works to get you the help you need. Don't be afraid to ask for help. I'm not saying everyone has the resources to help, but we've all been there so maybe they can point you in the right direction.
3. Do you have friends, as in people you'd actually CHOOSE to hang out with? This is hard because as expats we're often surrounded by people and feel all alone in the meantime. If you're anything like me, you don't like to put yourself out there. But I think we probably all feel that way. Give it time. Find small things in common with people and build on that. Friendships don't happen overnight (and if they do, you are extremely blessed.)
4. Do you have a regular schedule? I'm not saying pack your schedule full of meaningless errands. But seriously, having something to get up for every morning will take your mind off of what you're struggling with and back onto what you have to get done for the day. Just be careful not to overdo it (and don't let anyone else make you overdo it too).
5. Do you have frequent contact with family back home? Trust me, it is cheap and easy to keep in touch with people back home. Try using Skype which lets you call computer-to-computer for free (or you can use Skype Out which lets you call computer-to-phone for set fees). Just do yourself a favor and limit yourself to once a week. Too much contact can make it more difficult to be here. 
6. Are you doing okay with language learning? I know this isn't a simple question but it's an important one. If you've been here 3 months and aren't making any headway with the language maybe you need to change your tactics. If you're in a school, switch to using a one-on-one tutor. If you're using a tutor, enroll in a school. This might shake things up a bit to let you get back into the groove of language learning.
7. Are you trying to do too much? Maybe you just have too much on your plate. I've seen a lot of volunteers get worn out here in Cairo because there's so much that needs to get done and there's no one else to do it. You're only one person. You'll last longer here if you focus your energy on just a couple of things rather than stretching yourself too thin across more responsibilities.
8. Have you been out of Cairo? Get out of the city for a few days. This might mean going to the Red Sea or the North Coast, or even just taking the train to Alex for the day. 
9. Have you taken some time out for you? One time me and the girls went to a spa somewhere in Zamalek and it was a nice change. Other friends of mine went for day-use at a 5-star hotel near the Pyramids where they swam and just enjoyed the sun for the day.

Don't forget to check out the rest of this series:

The Wonder Years, Part 1: Arriving in Cairo

The Wonder Years, Part 2: Learning to Speak Arabic

The Wonder Years, Part 3: See the Sights of Cairo
The Wonder Years, Part 5: Making Egyptian Friends

The Wonder Years is a series about Erin's first 2 years in Cairo before she met and married her Egyptian husband. Stay tuned for more about her adventures in Egypt the first time around.

10 Tips for Surviving a Cairo Taxi Ride

You booked your ticket to Egypt. You made the long trip across the pond. You get off the plane in Cairo in a daze and finally make it through passport control, pick up your luggage, and come out of the terminal into the dry, dusty heat.

A guy walks up to you and says to you "taxi?" You nod your head and follow him. Bags get stowed in the trunk, on the taxi roof, or (if you're REALLY lucky) shoved in beside you in the backseat.

Now what?

Prepare for the ride of your life.

Traffic in Cairo is not for the faint of heart. At any moment you will be able to reach out of the taxi window and touch the car next to you. Limited personal space is just a fact of life in Egypt, and it is no different out on the roads.

The best thing you can do now is just to sit back and enjoy the ride.

I can still remember my early days in Cairo, trying to get from place to place without getting completely lost because (1) I didn't pronounce my destination correctly and (2) the driver didn't hear me right or (3) the person he stopped to ask directions from really had no idea how to get to your destination but he wasn't about to say that and sent us off on a wild goose chase instead.

It was terrifying then, and it still makes me catch my breath every once in a while.

That's what makes Cairo so fascinating.

But don't worry these 10 things that will help you survive a taxi ride in Cairo:

1. Take only white taxis with meters. If you've never been to Egypt before, you may not know the different between the old black-and-white taxis and the new white taxis. Here is the main difference between the two: Black-and-white taxis will charge you whatever they want to charge you. White taxis will charge you according to the meter (just make sure they don't start the meter before you get in.)

2. Know the landmarks around your destination. Street address and maps were fine before you arrived in Egypt. As far as Egyptians are concerned, they're just as well thrown in the trash here. You will have better luck arriving at your destination safely if you can send the driver in the direction of the nearest big landmark. Landmarks include major intersections, famous mosques, specific parts of town or a main street in that part of town. Your best bet is to ask someone (preferably an English-speaking Egyptian) how they would tell a taxi driver to get there.

3. If possible, take an Arabic speaker with you. Granted some taxi drivers may actually be able to speak some English but very few are truly fluent. If you can't get the driver to understand you, get someone who can explain it to him in Arabic and you're home free. And it certainly helps if you can pick up a little *taxi* Arabic yourself because there is no guarantee that even if they speak broken English to you that they'll understand you when you respond.

4. Work your way up to long rides across town. Depending on how long you plan to be in Cairo, the best way to get to know your way around Cairo is to walk. Once you get a feel for the area, it might be easier for you to explain it to a taxi driver later (especially when you're trying to get home.) If you're only in Egypt for a short time, I definitely recommend hiring a driver for the day (preferably English-speaking) so that you don't have to worry about getting into multiple taxis from place to place.

5. Don't catch a taxi that's been sitting there waiting. They usually want to charge you much more for a ride that it's really worth so don't feel bad for walking right past him or even ignoring him completely. You're much better off getting in a taxi that's just driving by rather than one that has been sitting there for a while.

6. Don't expect the driver to have change. This is true just about anywhere in Egypt. So if you don't have change, I recommend that you give him a little extra (max 5 pounds extra) or have him stop by one of those kiosks on the side of the road to see if they have change.

7. Know that taxi drivers usually work in just one part of town. This means that if your destination is across town they may be less familiar with that area than in their own. One solution to this problem is to take two taxis, one to get across Cairo to the part of town you're going to and then another *local* taxi to get to your final destination.

8. If you're a lady, sit in the backseat. Guys can ride up front with the driver (if they so choose.) But trust me, when they start to weave in and out of cars like they learned to drive by playing Play Station, you'll appreciate the distance between you and the back of the car in front of you that first time you come screeching to a halt.

9. There is no law against ignoring the driver if he wants to chat. There's no law against talking to the driver, but do only what you feel comfortable doing. Sometimes taxi drivers act like you got in their car just for them to practice their broken English. Ladies, please don't give them your name. You can make polite conversation with a driver as long as he doesn't get personal with his questions.

10. When in doubt, get out. Well, don't get out in the middle of nowhere. But, seriously, once you get in a taxi there is no obligation for you to stay in it. You might disagree with the driver on his requested fare. Or you might not feel comfortable with some of the questions he's asking or the way he's staring at you in his rearview mirror. You may be terrified at the way he whips in and out around the other cars. These are all valid reasons for you to ask the driver to stop and let you out. No explanation is required (unless you're like me and you want him to know that what he wants you to pay is outRAGEous).

The Cairo taxi experience is something to remember for the rest of your life.

But it doesn't have to be scary or overwhelming. Trust me, I've been taking taxis in Cairo since 2002. Some things don't change, even as other things do. They may have given all those black-and-white taxi drivers new white cars and a meter, but it doesn't change who they've been all these years.

They still drive like maniacs.

They still want you to yell out your destination to them as they drive past. It gives them the option to decide if they want to pretend that they can't hear you or see you... or not.

They still play hard-to-get for certain destinations (they'll raise their hand to say no) mostly in order to get you to pay a little extra.

They still need to be watched like a hawk. Maybe my blond hair and blue eyes somehow means *stupid* or *gullible* because they still try to overcharge me by keeping their meters running from a previous fare or just *forgetting* to turn it on altogether.

So sorry to disappoint them... this foreigner is neither *stupid* NOR *gullible*. I have lived here too long to be either.

Sometimes I wish they would all just go away.

But then again, what would Cairo be without its taxis?

The Wonder Years, Part 3: Seeing the Sights of Cairo

My first few weeks in Cairo went by very fast. I was meeting people, starting Arabic language school, and struggling to find my way around my neighborhood.

What did I care whether I'd seen the Pyramids or the Nile River yet?

Fast forward to 3 weeks later when I saw the Nile River for the first time. It was like I couldn't catch my breath for a minute.

I was awestruck.

And then it hit me. I was in Egypt. I was 4,000 miles away from everyone I loved.

And I was alone.

It's important to allow yourself to be a tourist in Egypt. Whether you'll be here for 6 months or 6 years, you need to take time to see the sights of Cairo. Don't get so busy and miss out on the honeymoon period of being in Egypt.

Trust me, culture shock will kick in before you know it.

Here's a list of all the must-sees in Cairo:

The Pyramids & the Sphynx. These sit right on the edge of Cairo. You'll need to arrange transportation to get there (or at least if you plan on getting back from them in one piece). Plus you'll need a ride to get out to where you can take the perfect panorama shot of the Pyramids.

Take time to check out the Boat Museum. Trust me you'll appreciate the break from the hot sun. And you'll have fun sliding around in the shoe bags they make you wear.

My first time to the Pyramids was about one month after I arrived in Cairo. It wasn't nearly as impressive as I'd expected it to be, maybe because for that entire month I'd been building it up in my mind. The most surprising thing about the Pyramids for me was how they backed right up to the city. I DID get to ride my first camel on that day too, and I would definitely recommend this. Although don't let the guy swindle you out of extra money by refusing to take you back until you pay up.

The Egyptian Museum. This is right smack dab in the center of downtown a stone's throw from the Nile. You can't miss this. It houses the King Tut exhibit. Honestly it feels a bit like more like walking through a warehouse than a museum, so you might need a tour guide to talk you through the exhibits. Otherwise you might get lost in there.

I honestly can't remember my first time to the Egyptian Museum. It's just a short walk from the Mubarak Metro station so perhaps I went sooner than I remember. I want to go one time with a tour guide because there is so much stuff inside that isn't labeled well. The best part is definitely the King Tut exhibit - the one section that is both air-conditioned and properly marked.

The Citadel. The most striking part of the Citadel is the Mohamed Ali mosque with its shiny domes overlooking the city. But don't forget to visit the Mameluk mosque as well (green domes off to the side) that is very unique with its pillars taken from centuries of buildings (including ones from ancient Egypt, Christian, and Jewish origin).

Oh, the Citadel! I remember what I was wearing the first time I went to the Citadel - a great big long black sweater! It was chilly because it was January. I think the Citadel gives you a great view especially of the old part of the city. I was fascinated by the inside of the Mohamed Ali mosque. And we had fun counting all the different pillars we could find in the Mameluke mosque. 

Coptic Cairo. Hop off the Cairo metro into one of the oldest parts of Cairo. Here is the Hanging Church built over Roman water towers. And if you're brave enough to stoop down into the older parts of Coptic Cairo, you may even find an ancient Jewish synagogue.

Coptic Cairo is just off the Metro as well. They call it "Old Egypt" in Arabic. I loved how you have to climb down on certain streets to get to where you want to go. It made me realize how this city has been built up (quite literally) over centuries of city before. And the ceiling in the Hanging Church looks just like the inside of a boat - it was really amazing to see!

The Cave Church. You'll need to arrange for transportation to reach this. Both fascinating and awesome is this church built right into the mountain. The story goes that God split the mountain for this church, but let someone there tell the story for you because I can't remember all the details.

Don't forget to visit the Recycling Center in the Garbage City while you're there to get some unique gifts to take back home made from recycled fabric and paper.

A church built into the side of a mountain?! The sheer magnitude of the place took my breath away! I didn't realize until a later visit that there are other halls and meeting rooms around to the right of the main seating area - so make sure you go around to see these. They are even more amazing than the big one because they're built into actual caves in the mountain. There are some amazing rock sculptures out around the parking lot as well that make this well worth the trip.

The Khan El-Khalili. This famous old tourist bazaar is built right into the fabric of Cairo. You'll need your best bargaining skills on hand to get some really good deals. Just remember that the key to bargaining is being able to walk away at any time.

Take a break from the heat to have lunch at the Naguib Mahfouz cafe. You can also visit both the Hussein and the Al-Azhar mosques (although ladies you will need to bring a scarf to cover your head and bare arms) while you're there.

I usually go to the Khan El-Khalili about once a year. Now I have a number of shops that I frequent and the owners give me a good deal not just because I come regularly but I also bring others to their shops. You can't really get all this stuff in one place for the prices you'll find down in there anywhere else in Cairo.

Al-Azhar Park. The best time to visit this park is just before the sun goes down. You'll get a chance to walk around one of the few large green spaces in Egypt and to watch a glorious Cairo sunset over the old part of the city and the Citadel.

Al-Azhar Park did not exist when I first came to Cairo. For many years that area was just a big trash heap that overlooked the Khan El-Khalili area. Now they've turned it into one of the largest green spaces in Cairo. We love to go to the Citadel View restaurant for dinner. It's the perfect place to bring guests who are in Egypt for the first time.

The Nile River. Take a walk along the Corniche. Ride on a sailboat (felucca.) Walk over the bridge to the other side. Any way you can experience the Nile is well worth the time spent.

You can't really be in Egypt without seeing the Nile. It almost seems silly to even list it here as one of the *sights* of Cairo. But since I waited 3 weeks to see this, I figured it's better to encourage you to see it as soon as you can!

The Revolving Restaurant. For an extra special occasion, the best view of the city (and perhaps the most expensive) is this restaurant at the top of the Grand Hyatt Cairo. It takes 2 hours to make a complete revolution, which makes for a very nice evening. Be aware that formal attire is required and no children under 12 are allowed in the restaurant.

My first time to the Revolving Restaurant was when my husband proposed to me the day before I left Egypt to go home. I can't say that I remember much about that night, but I do remember a later visit on our anniversary recently. The Grand Hyatt sits right on the Nile in the center of town so as you turn, you see all of Cairo around you. It has definitely made for some very special evenings for us.

City Stars. Perhaps the largest mall in the Middle East, this is definitely a sight to see. If you spend a longer time in Cairo, you'll find this to be a nice break from the streets of Cairo.

City Stars is new in Cairo as well. I don't think it's more than 5 or 6 years old. I love to take first timers to Cairo to City Stars. It seems so different to have such a modern place in a city like Cairo! But now it is a home away from home for me (especially since it's about 10 minutes from our house).

What is my advice for seeing the sights of Cairo?

1. Plan according to the time you have available. If you're in Cairo for a while, you can spread these out over time. I still say you should visit at least the Pyramids and see the Nile River within your first month in Cairo (or as soon as you can manage it).
2. Don't overdo it in one day. I don't think one could see all the sights of Cairo in less than 3 days. Give yourself some time to enjoy each place and try not to plan more than 2 sites in one day.
3. Plan trips according to location. For example, I like to do the Pyramids in the morning, lunch downtown and then the Egyptian Museum in the afternoon. You don't know how much time you'll waste sitting in traffic at the oddest of times.
4. If you can, take a tour guide with you. Get a recommendation for one from another expat friend. There are many tour guides who don't work through a company, although they can still get you good deals and arrange for transportation.
5. If you're a student, ask about student tickets. This can save you a bunch of money.

Don't forget to check out the rest of this series:

The Wonder Years, Part 1: Arriving in Cairo

The Wonder Years, Part 2: Learning to Speak Arabic
The Wonder Years, Part 4: Dealing with Culture Shock
The Wonder Years, Part 5: Making Egyptian Friends

The Wonder Years is a series about Erin's first 2 years in Cairo before she met and married her Egyptian husband. Stay tuned for more about her adventures in Egypt the first time around.

The Wonder Years, Part 2: Learning to Speak Arabic

I often get asked by Egyptians about how hard it was to learn to speak Arabic. I'm not always very sure why people ask me this. Are they trying to be funny? Do they REALLY want to know? Are they completely oblivious to how terribly difficult it is to learn Arabic?

I think perhaps they're just curious to see my reaction. So you can understand why I almost always pause before answering. And how I answer usually depends on what mood I'm in.

If I'm feeling like everything is right with the world, then I'll just sigh and smile and say "el hamdellah" (Praise God in Arabic.)

If it's just been one of those days when I'd like to crawl up under a rock and hide, my response is more of a snort and a "hard, very hard" (in Arabic, of course.)

I'd say that learning to speak Arabic was perhaps one of the most difficult things I have ever done in my entire life. I know what you're thinking... them's big words girlie. Don't worry, I'll stand by that statement.

I arrived in Cairo in 2002 without knowing a single word in Arabic. And, yes, I really did plan it that way. I figured that it would be better to learn the right language the right way on the ground in Egypt.

It seemed like a good idea at the time.

I did buy a book called Beginner's Arabic Script while I was still back in the States. It was supposed to help me teach myself how to read and write Arabic. Yeah, a whole HECK of a lotta good that was gonna do for me in Egypt!

I didn't realize that it was all about the talkin'. Talkin', talkin', and then some more!

So what made learning Arabic so difficult for me? I'm not saying that learning Arabic is impossible. I am saying that it's different and probably more difficult to learn than say learning something like Spanish or French which is more similar to English.

1. It's not just one language. Arabic is one of those unique languages where the spoken language is completely different from the written language. There's even a different name for each one. And most of the time, the spoken language doesn't even really have a written form.

So you have to make a choice. Do you learn ameya (colloquial) or foos-ha (formal) or MSA (Modern Standard Arabic)?

2. The letters are different. English, French, Spanish, German, and all of the other Romantic languages all use mostly the same letters. But Arabic script was unlike anything I'd ever seen. And each letter looks different whether it's at the beginning, middle, or end of a word. Talk about confusing!

3. You read and write from right to left in Arabic. They read and write *backwards* (for me, at least) in Egypt. Books are read with the binding on the right (not on the left like in English). This took a little getting used to.

4. Figuring out how to make language learning work with my personality. A lot of my friends who were here studying Arabic all seemed to be natural language learners. They were fearless and friendly to everyone they met. They'd talk about this girl they'd met on the Metro and that lady they's spent hours talking to.

I was not like that at all. I think that if I hadn't been absolutely convinced that I was supposed to be in Egypt that I would have been on that plane home so fast, well, the dust wouldn't have had time to settle.

I'm not very outgoing. I've always been a bit introverted. In an unfamiliar situation, I usually tend to clamp my mouth shut and huddle over by the wall rather than to burst loudly onto the scene. I was afraid of failure. My solution for this was to do nothing, because if you don't try then you don't fail.

So after a few months in Egypt, I still was afraid to open my mouth to speak. I was afraid to make mistakes. It was all up in my head but I couldn't seem to get it out of my mouth fast enough to form sentences or even to communicate the simplest of ideas.

In short I felt like a big, fat failure.

I'd look at myself compared to my friends and think that I'd never get this language thing down. I cried from the frustration of it all.

But after a while I began to realize that I couldn't compare myself to other people. My personality was completely different than theirs. I had to make this work for me in my own way. What worked for them wasn't going to necessarily work for me.

If I didn't feel comfortable talking to random strangers on the metro to practice my Arabic, this was okay. I needed someone like the girl down at the stationary shop down the road who I saw on a regular basis to practice my Arabic with. I would go in once a week or so and spend 30 minutes sitting down and chatting with her in Arabic. I asked my language helper to help me do specific things, like to help me know how to pick up my mail from the post office.

It took me a while to find my rhythm. But eventually it came almost naturally to speak because now I was speaking with friends, familiar faces who weren't going to laugh at me if I made a mistake. Maybe I didn't have the biggest circle of friends who spoke Arabic, but the few I had were special and long-lasting friendships.

Here is what I know about learning a foreign language:

You're gonna make mistakes. You'll probably say it wrong at least 100 times before you say it right. Don't freak out. Everybody does this. You are just like everybody else. Nobody can be perfect from Day 1.

You'll probably mix some words up. You might say "cat" for "room" and "room" for "cat" (oh, sorry, maybe that was me.) It's confusing because sometimes words sound the same even though they're actually completely different.

You might mispronounce letters. Arabic has some sounds in there that do not exist in the English language. Some of them seem almost unnatural, like the "gh" sound that comes from the back of your throat. And others may come out forced. For example, there are 2 "h" sounds in Arabic. One has air behind it and the other one doesn't. I still sometimes put too much *umph* behind the one with the air behind it. It gets a few strange looks from time to time, but it works for me.

You may embarrass yourself just a little. This was what I was most terrified of (note the bit above about being afraid of failure.) Somehow when you get a word wrong it seems like it always manages to mean something bad. And while no one ever told me that I made this kind of mistake, I did get a few laughs which was almost as bad.

You'll learn to laugh at yourself. Or at least I hope you do. Because if you don't already have a good sense of humor, learning a foreign language will teach you that pretty quick. I've never laughed so hard as I did when I realized that I substituted the word "lettuce" (khas) for "shame" (ikhs) without realizing what I was saying. To this day my husband and I say khas aleek (lettuce on you) instead of ikhs aleek (shame on you - but in a teasing way).

All of the above are very normal. Anybody who learns a foreign language - especially in the country that speaks it - is going to go through this.

That certainly makes me feel better, don't you agree?

What is my advice for anyone wanting to learn to speak Arabic?

1. Study Arabic in an Arabic-speaking country. 
2. Learn the colloquial dialect. You might want to learn to read and write as well but consider this a second language.
3. Speak with native Arabic speakers as much as you can. You cannot learn correct pronunciation without hearing how native speakers pronounce it.
4. Don't just study in a classroom. If you can find a language helper, use one. Get out and talk to everyday people out on the streets. Schedule in Arabic speaking time (i.e. 15 minutes buying fruit in Arabic, 30 minutes talking to a guy or girl working in a local shop, etc.)
5. Learn about culture while you learn Arabic. So much of the vocabulary in Arabic revolves around the culture. For example, you can just learn the correct vocabulary words for family (father, mother, brother, sister, etc.) or you can learn this same vocabulary while learning about the roles of each one in the family and the responsibilities of each one.
6. Buy an English-Arabic dictionary. I highly recommend the Elias Pocket Dictionary with Arabic-to-English and English-to-Arabic in one book. Sometimes it's nice to just be able to look up the exact word you mean and show it to the Arabic speaker (as long as they read).
7. Participate in a cultural immersion experience. In other words, go spend two weeks living with an Arabic-speaking family (preferably who don't speak much English). This will radically improve your Arabic.
8. Don't compare yourself to anyone else. Some people have a natural knack for learning languages. And some (like me) are slow starters who may eventually surpass others who pick up some phrases and vocabulary very early on. You just have to discover what works for you and do it.
9. Learn to laugh at yourself. Enjoy the language learning experience and don't be so afraid of making mistakes. 
10. Practice, practice, practice. You can't learn to speak Arabic if all you do is study it and never actually speak it. Use the little you have to get a little more. That's the real secret to learning Arabic successfully.

Don't forget to check out the rest of this series:
The Wonder Years, Part 1: Arriving in Cairo
The Wonder Years, Part 3: Seeing the Sights of Cairo
The Wonder Years, Part 4: Dealing with Culture Shock
The Wonder Years, Part 5: Making Egyptian Friends

The Wonder Years is a series about Erin's first 2 years in Cairo before she met and married her Egyptian husband. Stay tuned for more about her adventures in Egypt the first time around.